Since our last update, we have been busy visiting other districts in order to write reports for VSO and the new education volunteers who are coming out to start placements. The biggest event for us, however, has been the finishing of our own placement in Mahendranagar (which seems to have more or less reverted to its old name since the Maoist government left power). As can be imagined, this was a hectic time with over 6 years worth of volunteer furniture and possessions to sort through and move. It was also a time of partings and sad goodbyes to all of the friends, aquaintances and schools with which we have worked and socialised for the past 2 years. We were lucky enough to receive 'Goodbye' ceremonies from some of 'our' schools, at which tikka (red powder on the forehead) and malla (garlands) featured prominently:
This brings us to the theme of this blog, which is about the ceremonies, celebrations and religions that make Nepal such an interesting place to live. When we think back to our time here, it is these that will, no doubt, be amongst our strongest and fondest memories. Ceremony, religion and ritual are inextricably linked here. Beautiful, colourful, fascinating and frequently all three, a hundred blog postings could not do justice to the subject. Here then is a mere taster and more photos can be found in the accompanying album.
Celebrations, Ceremonies and Religions in Nepal
The two main religions of Nepal are Hinduism and Buddhism (especially Tibetan Buddhism). This over-simplifies the matter however because there are hundreds of local variations of each. One religion dominates in some areas whilst the other dominates in others, with the two frequently being merged together. Buddhism has incorporated many of the images and ideas of Hinduism, whereas Hinduism has incorporated the Buddha (as the ninth incarnation of Vishnu). This vast range is reflected in the variety of sacred places. Some can be very humble, such as this small linga shrine to the Hindu god Shiva:
Whereas others can be much grander, such as this Buddhist temple, built at Lumbini, the location of Buddha's birth, with German funding:
New temples are being constructed and dedicated (with the relevant statues) all the time, often to earn respect or divine favour for the sponsor. On the other hand, almost everywhere in Nepal can be found ancient and unique sites. For example, amongst the hectic traffic in Kathmandhu, we came across this Shiva temple, built within the living roots of a Pipal tree, :
We couldn't work out which came first, the tree or the temple. Incidentally, the Pipal tree is an excellent example of a living thing sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists (it was under such a tree that the Buddha was said to have gained enlightenment). Again at Lumbini, the exact spot where the Buddha is supposed to have been born is still marked by a stone, placed by the emperor Ashoka the Great, over 2000 years ago:
The rituals and ceremonies that accompany these religions are as varied as the temples. Almost every week seems to mark a festival of some type, with some being national (or international) and others being very local. In Mahendranagar, we came across this procession through town, featuring a brightly decorated elephant (no doubt on loan from nearby Suklaphanta Wildlife Reserve):
Some days are of special significance to schools, students and teachers. In particular, almost every school in the country will put on a grand show for Saraswoti puja day, where the image of Saraswoti (goddess of learning) is paraded, propitiated (given offerings) and tikka'd:
Indeed, many schools give the impression that it not so much the quality of teaching or the curriculum that influences how well children learn but, rather, the amount of honour shown to Saraswoti.Whatever the festival, two things that they all seem to have in common are colourful fun and as much tasty food as possible! Here is a Mahandrenagar Mitai (sweets) shop, specially re-enforced for the important festival of Tihar:
Sweets, fun and days off work. You can't say fairer than that. Whatever your religion!
